I am nomad. Hear me roar.

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Tuesday, 20 July 2010

Sunday, 18 July 2010

The Golden Pavilion

Matching Luggage

Years ago, when I was walking through The Rocks in Sydney, I walked past one of the big label stores, I think it was Gucci. In the window, they had a large selection of monogrammed matched luggage sets, all looking just so, and very prim and proper. As part of one of the sets, it came with an optional trilby type hat in the same fabric as the luggage, so that in essence you could not only have matching luggage, but you had the option to 'match' your luggage.

In my best Queen's English, HRH impression, 'we are most exceedingly amused'.

The idea of this, matching your luggage has stuck with me every since. It is just so stylish and so tacky at the same time. I bask in the contradiction.

Over my trip, I have developed the need for a satchel that I can wear over the shoulder, and under the great weight of the turtlepack to keep some essential items within easy reach, a couple of days ago, I found the perfect one in one of the stores on my walking tour. Yesterday, M talked me into going back and getting the matching canvas trilby, using sun-protection as the justification.

My life is complete, I match my luggage.

Gion Matsuri

Yesterday I embarked on a super secret spy mission. Your mission should you choose to accept it, travel en route to rendezvous with M. Location: Kyoto station. The subject shall be arriving from Osaka. ETA: unknown. Cue ticking time-bomb and Mission Impossible theme music.

I met up with a family friend, who is also holiday in Japan at the moment, and yesterday after finally finding each other at the station, travelled to Gion, to see as much of the Gion Matsuri as was left for the day.

We ended up tracing much of the same route as I had the day before during the walking tour, but due to the festival, there was much more in the way of religious ceremonies and happenings going on. It was really fantastic to watch, at one stage there were a large number of men decked in white summer robes and toe boots, chanting and hoisting these large gold structures, I want to call them 'arc's' but that seems too much of a Christian word, in the air. I wish I was better educated in the meaning of the ceremony, as it was so very interesting.

The food stalls were all still around, we gorged ourselves on glorious beef skewers, seasoned to perfection with salt and pepper, seared on the flat grill, and super juicy ripe pineapple wedges.

When the heat and the people crush got the better of us, we retreated into a petite coffeehouse for a caffeine hit, and then back up the hill for a bit of shopping. M listening to me prattle on about my trip so far, and letting me show her the particular sights that I had discovered the previous day.

Later, at the train station we parted with plans to meet again today, and find accommodation together for the next week or so.




Alligator Godzilla Mouse


I have lost all concept of space and time. Yesterday, I had to ask a friend what day of the week it was. I actually had no idea. I believe this is generally something you aim for in a holiday, but it is a very strange sensation.

So, believe me when I say, I think it was 2 days ago, but am not certain, that I went on the walking tour of Kyoto outlined in the Lonely Planet.

My day started, with a few mishaps with regards to locating the correct bus stop, and making my way back to Kyoto train station. Now, having come in late at night, and going straight from shinkansen to taxi on my way through, I did not really take any notice of the station itself. Seeing it again in the light of day, I was absolutely astonished about how I could have possibly missed seeing it. It is epic. If locomotives wrote ballads, there would be odes and sonnets to this monument of a building.

The train station is something like 15 stories high, which encompasses a hotel and department store. Right at the top there is a Skywalk, and Happy Terrace viewing area, from which you can see most of Kyoto sprawling out below.

I caught the bus, to the beginning of the tour and began my exploration of the traditional streets of Kyoto. The path set in the guidebook is, from what I understand, a well know tourist trek, and there were many tourists walking it, which added to the atmosphere for me. I found I spent a lot of this day not only sight seeing but people watching, catching snippets of conversation here and there. One of the true highlights of which was family of Americans speaking about how to pronounce 'Thank you' in Japanese, being 'Ah-ri-ga-to go-sai-mas', followed by 'yeah yeah I got it, its Alligator Godzilla Mouse'

I ducked in and out of craft shops, tea houses and curios vendors all day. Passing shrines, temples, and rub-able grinning Buddhas bringing me prosperity, wit and safe travels. Thank you happy Buddha.

Later on down the track closer to Gion, market stalls begin to spring up, offering yakisoba, and various fruit and meats on skewers, one stall has goldfish to catch from a tank. I stand and watch quietly as a little girl in a bright turquoise kimono endeavours to net her new pet.

The bus back takes me through the streets of Gion, preparing for the festival which culminates the next day. Giant floats are being set up on the side of the street in readiness for the parade.

Upon arriving back to the hostel, I discover I have dorm-mates now. Two very loquacious Danish dames, who I had actually met earlier that day, in the street looking very lost and had given them directions. We gabbed the rest of the night away in the common room til bed.


Thursday, 15 July 2010

Laundry Day


Consumed with the all encompassing desire to do nothing today, but also facing the greater need for fresh underwear. Yes, I am wearing my swimming costume right now. I put the capital 'R' for 'Realistic' firmly in my SMART goals today and set myself the very realistic goal of doing nothing except my laundry and arranging meals. Having done so, I rolled up my Santa sack of stinky, sweaty goodies, and set off in search of the nearest coin laundry.

In due course, I discovered the desired location, only to note my lack of laundry detergent, this being one of the items I had discarded in the great turtlepack purge. Pickle. Luckily I found myself within sight of supermarket and leaving my sack behind at the laundry mat I walk up to the shop.

It turns out, to my advantage, that laundry detergent in Japan, is packaged exactly the same as it is in Australia. Elated by how easy the purchase was, I returned to the washing machines. This time, to realise that the coin content of my wallet was severely depleted. Double pickle. I seek out the nearest vending machine to force it to give me change. It is out of order. Triple pickle. I spot another vending machine up the road.

Once again, I set out leaving my sack behind, finding the vending machine and to my great delight, change! Coinage factor be high. I return once more to the machines.

Having never used a laundry mat, even at home, I'm not certain of the etiquette. So I take what I believe are instructions, not that I can read them, from a cartoon washing machine on the wall that has a mouth like a blow-up doll, and proceed.

It all went fairly well, I was using the general principle that if my clothing items can't handle being tumble dried then they don't deserve to survive the rest of the trip, and apart from me staining my once buttercup towel a nice mustard colour due to proximity with my black thermals, there were no mishaps.

Relishing how much lighter the clothing is, post wash and dry, on the way back to the hostel, knowing full well how much of a difference wet clothes made on the overall weight of the turtlepack. I drop off the items and head out to lunch. This time taking more notice of my surroundings.

Kyoto is positively charming, the shops, the little lane ways, the small shrines on the side of the quiet streets. I stop in at the first eatery I find, I order a set that turns out to be a kind of DIY lunch, with rice, eel, tuna and accompaniments, that you add to your bowl to your liking, then pour hot water over the top to form your own soup. The lady serving me was incredibly patient and helpful, whilst demonstrating how I was to construct my meal. This had been proceeded by a selection of puffed rice crackers, some sweet like fruit loops but more elegant, other savoury flavoured with soy or seaweed. I reminisced afterwards that I should have taken photos but by the time I had had the thought, it had all but disappeared.

The meal was followed by a dessert of green tea and coconut icecreams, warm red bean rolls, and frothy tea. The flavours were delicate but delicious.

I make it back in time to miss being caught in the mid afternoon thunderstorm and watch the heavy droplets, and lightning from the refuge of the hostel.

Having reached all my targets for the day, I settle down for a well earned nanna nap.